The Most Exhilarating Rush of Adrenaline I Have Ever Felt!

Surfing is by far the most exhilarating sport or activity I have ever participated in. The rush of adrenaline while gliding through the water and being pushed by the immense force of a wave is like none other. No two waves are the same, and as a surfer one must work in coordination with the wave. I have been lucky enough to experience surfing, and would recommend that everyone should learn to surf if they have the chance.

I spend at least two weeks out of the year at my cousins house in Laguna Beach, California and was introduced to surfing by my cousins. I have been able to get private surf instruction from a once professional surfer. 

Learning to surf is a gradual progression that starts off tough, yet continually gets easier. Most people learn to surf on a long foam board, which is about eight-feet in length and has little concave, providing a surface easily to balance on. I started off on a long foam board and learned how to stand up on the board in the moving wave. Once I understood the basic fundamentals of surfing and was comfortable moving with the wave, I moved on to a long fiberglass board with more concave and less weight. The long fiberglass board, also around eight-feet in length, allowed me to begin to turn the board in the wave instead of just riding in a straight line towards the beach. Once I mastered the maneuvering of the longboard, I moved on to a shorter fiberglass board. The short-board is a few inches longer than the surfer's height and offers the most maneuverability in the wave. 

My favorite thing about surfing is the adrenaline of paddling into a wave and the split second in which you stand up on the board, and either glide down the rippling wave or wipeout. When you are standing up on the board slicing through the water there is a certain feeling of peace. I find surfing so natural and epic at the same time. I have only stood in "the tube" of a wave a few times but when I was in the tube it felt like time stopped. Surfing requires a certain coordination of mind and body that is unlike any other sport and requires great balance and core strength. The feeling after catching a wave is unexplainable. I hope that you can experience this feeling sometime soon!